I have never surfed before today. As I lay on the board, a gigantic breaker formed behind me. I just had time to duck down to the bottom, out of the wave's reach. But my board wasn't as lucky. The tumbling wake grabbed the piece of styrofoam, flipped it and sent it powerfully to shore. This would all be fine except that the board was tethered to my ankle. Every big wave I would go surging through the water, dragged by the board, towards land. Other than the huge waves the surfing was alot of fun, so much fun that I'm going back for more on Wednesday.
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